RESTAURANT REVIEW:

This is the second of four reviews in a series of healthy, lunchtime alternatives to fast food.

If Wahoo’s were anywhere else than its location on crowded Main Street, I would probably eat there more often than I already do.

Parking is always a problem, especially in the summer, but there are many days when I spit on the parking gods and get in my car and fight the sea of humanity that greets me when I turn onto Main Street from Pacific Coast Highway.

Once I find a spot, and usually I do with a little effort, I amble over to one of my favorite little joints in Huntington Beach.

What makes this place so appealing to me is the freshness of the ingredients and the innovation used to create some of the dishes.

When three brothers, Ed, Mingo and Wing, moved with their parents from Brazil to Orange County in 1975, the three adapted quickly to the surf lifestyle.

Like in Brazil, the three worked in the family restaurant, but on free days they were at the beach and soon they ventured down to Mexico.

It was there they discovered the fish taco.

The three combined that love of Mexican food with their Asian and South American roots and devised a menu that integrated all three countries.

The premise is simple. Pick a filling, grilled or blackened fish (mahi-mahi), or chicken, carne asada, carnitas, shrimp, or vegetables, which include mushrooms.

Then figure out what you are going to put it in. The restaurant has tacos, enchiladas, burritos or bowls.

What I like is they don’t look at you funny if you order something unusual. My last request was a carne asada and shrimp quesadilla. No problem, the woman at the register said.

I have ordered combination plates in the past that aren’t on the menu, just improvising as I am standing in line.

On one visit I ordered a burrito and had them mix blackened chicken with vegetables. That was extremely good, since the mushrooms were cooked in Cajun spices and really added to the already zesty flavor of the dish.

When I am in the mood for rice and beans I order the combination plates. There are five of them, and the most expensive is just less than $8.

The surfer mentality of quantity and low price is certainly evident with the combinations. There are burrito and taco combinations, or tacos and enchiladas, or any of them can be ordered by themselves.

There are two types of beans available. There is a spicy Cajun white bean and a traditional black bean.

I prefer the Cajun white bean, as it has more flavor. The ahi rice that comes with the dish is so-so. It just seems like white rice with some seasoning on top. I would go with no rice and order both the beans.

Again, it’s not on the menu, but they gladly accommodated that request.

My latest kick is the wahoo bowls. For between $6 to $9, you can get a plate filled with ahi rice, choice of beans and meat ranging from carne asada marinated in teriyaki sauce to shredded carnitas that is pan grilled.

My favorite of the ones I have tried is the banzai bowl. I got shrimp and the vegetables, and again came at them with a special order. I got a little rice and filled up on both beans.

Though the brothers have made this into a successful chain with restaurants in all of California, as well as Texas and Colorado, the motif of each restaurant is one that honors their love of surfing.

The décor looks like a Mexican cantina, and the hip little restaurants have surf equipment, memorabilia and apparel donated from a variety of places to decorate the walls.

This is not the place to go if you are in a hurry. The line is usually in the double digits at lunchtime, though they bring your order out with amazing speed.

If you don’t mind a minor wait and parking challenges, go to Wahoo’s. As the tastes of the food are in your mouth you’ll forget all about that expiring parking meter.

WAHOO’S FISH TACOS

ADDRESS: 120 Main Street, Huntington Beach

PHONE: (714) 536-2050

CUISINE: Mexican

SPECIALTY DISH: Banzai burrito

ALCOHOL SERVED: Beer and wine

DRESS: beach casual

FAMILY FRIENDLY: yes, five menu items

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: Everything except Discover

RATING: *** out of 4

JOHN REGER reviews restaurants for the Independent.