RESTAURANT REVIEW:

This is the third of four reviews in a series of healthy, lunchtime alternatives to fast food.

It is my suspicion that I am not the only one who is fond of Esther Kim. I mean, how could you not be? The happily married mother of three has an elegance to her that is alluring and a personality that is infectious. Besides, she makes some of the best lunch food in the area.

Esther’s Place is inside a health food store next to the post office and has no signage to indicate her location. That doesn’t matter, word of mouth has kept her extremely busy for 11 years. She arrives in the morning, dressed as though she is going out for a nice lunch, not making it. She is the only woman I know who works a counter wearing a string of pearls and sporting freshly manicured nails.

Kim is a hurricane of activity, prepping the back, guiding her staff to accomplish certain tasks. No matter how busy she is, the phone is answered by her and she is the only Asian woman I have met who says “adios.”

If you come in to her place more than twice, she will remember not only your name, but what you ordered as well. Of course in my case, she had something for me to try and I got the feeling no was not an option.

There are not too many women in this world who could get me to drink wheatgrass and eat tofu, but there I was, sitting at the counter of the lunch shop she has owned for 11 years, happily gulping down ground up lawn clippings and merrily munching tofu.

Of course, with the way Kim prepares this and many of the healthy dishes at her sandwich shop, you hardly realize what you are eating is good for you.

I certainly thought I had fallen off my diet when I was eating my lunch there the other day.

It began with the soup of the day, which was vegetable. There was plenty of celery, carrots, peas, onions and potato in a broth that was very smooth and mixed with plenty of spices.

Some of the other soups she offers during the week are tomato pasta, veggie barley and minestrone. But the split pea is the favorite. She serves it twice a week and probably could offer it more, it is so popular.

Kim’s menu is mostly soups, salads and sandwiches, but the amount of ingredients is quite impressive. Kim shops at local produce suppliers and picks out her supplies herself.

“It would be easier to have someone bring it to me,” Kim said. “I want to select my own so I can get the best.”

That is evident in the romaine lettuce and tomatoes that come with my chicken salad sandwich. The fresh white meat chicken breast is mixed with crisp lettuce and a large bright red slice of tomato. Shredded carrots, sesame seeds, alfalfa sprouts and low-fat mayonnaise are mixed with the chicken. It is served on whole wheat bread and is a bargain at $6.95.

The bestseller is the Esther’s combo for $7.45. It is three fist-sized items that are extremely nutritious. The first is a Chinese salad, which has romaine lettuce, sunflower seeds, shredded purple cabbage, carrots and avocado slice. The dressing is a ginger dressing.

The main dish is ground chicken in soy-lemon sauces and mixed with sesame seeds, cilantro and purple cabbage. It is a great taste, and the slice of avocado on top only makes it more flavorful.

A side of brown rice is served with it, but instead of just plain brown rice, Kim has added garbanzo beans and a dressing of ginger, soy and lemon.

My beverage was one of Kim’s 13 shakes, all of which are made with nonfat frozen yogurt. I had the energy plus, which combined banana, lecithin, papaya juice and spirulina.

My meal was not only delicious, but inexpensive. Order the combo and a shake, and you will get out of there for less than $15, including tip.

What really felt lighter was my body. It might have been power of suggestion but I felt really good after my lunch and my bicycle ride that afternoon took less time than usual. This is definitely a place I will visit weekly.

ESTHER’S PLACE

Address: 6789 Warner Ave., Huntington Beach

Phone: (714) 841-4266

Cuisine: health food

Specialty dish: Esther’s combo

Alcohol served: none

Dress: casual

Family friendly: yes

Credit cards accepted: Cash only

Rating: *** 1/2 out of 4

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants for the Independent.