RESTAURANT REVIEW:

The challenge at Silky Sullivan’s is to find a moment in the popular restaurant and Irish pub when it isn’t bustling.

I have tried, and failed miserably, and that is a good thing because when I walk in the door, I want people, friendly people, overly friendly people in a celebratory mood.

The establishment has yet to disappoint me. Whether it be a Sunday morning breakfast, or Wednesday late lunch or Thursday early evening happy hour, it always seems as if there is a group having a good time, and they are more than happy to add one more.

The entry way opens to a wrap-around bar where there are countertop tables. There are televisions atop the bar as well as in the corners of the dining room. The best place to watch is the second level dining room where there are tables and chairs, and a little distance between you and the large flat screens.

Of course, sitting away from the bar area is anti-social. Besides, you are going to miss out on the characters who park themselves on a bar stool and will talk about anything from politics to sports.

It reminds me of an East Coast tavern where the locals always hang out, and it only takes two visits to be considered one of them.

The conversations I have had at the bar in the past have been interesting and one was even epic.

I was introduced to the place by my friend Randy Youngman, longtime sports columnist at a local publication, who promised me the chicken wings were as good as any I have had in my second hometown of Buffalo, N.Y.

He was right. They are as good as the authentic ones I had at Anchor Bar on Main Street in the city where my parents grew up.

But the wings are not promoted or hyped, they are just one of the many items Silky’s does well.

The pub is known for the Sullivan’s Irish Sundae. It is a baked potato stuffed with chunks of prime rib and mushrooms, topped with au jus, melted cheese and sour cream.

For $7.95 this is a meal in itself and is perfect with one of the draft beers they offer.

It impressed me that for such a meat-perfect dish, they will fill it full of vegetables for vegetarians.

The menu seems to attempt to satisfy any possible taste for tavern food. There are 23 items on the appetizer menu alone.

The stuffed jalapenos have Philadelphia cream cheese and are pretty good. Some of my lunch favorites are the mahi mahi fish tacos and the Reuben sandwich.

For dinner try the Cajun rib eye steak or the lamb chops, which are broiled and served with the traditional mint jelly.

One of the items that really surprised me was the seared ahi, which was not overcooked.

That isn’t exactly what I would think they would be able to handle, but this place has shocked me more than once.

If I am looking for something edible to eat at midnight in Fountain Valley, I know I can swing by Silky’s any night of the week.

They have a special menu after 10 p.m. that features items like a chicken quesadilla, hamburger, blackened chicken Caesar salad and a rib eye steak.

My favorite is the Dublin stuffer. It is sautéed slices of prime rib, grilled onions, bell peppers and mushrooms topped with melted cheese on a hoagie.

The breakfast is pretty standard, but the bangers (Irish sausage) and eggs are worth the trip.

While the breakfast is ordinary, the atmosphere is not, and that is what should draw you to this homey, Cheers-like restaurant and pub.

SILKY SULLIVAN’S

ADDRESS: 10201 Slater Ave., Fountain Valley

PHONE: (714) 963-2718

CUISINE: Irish and American

SPECIALTY DISH: Sullivan’s Irish Sundae

ALCOHOL SERVED: Full bar

DRESS: casual

FAMILY FRIENDLY: a five-item children’s menu

Credit cards accepted: American Express, Visa and MasterCard

Rating: *** out of 4

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants for the Independent.