RESTAURANT REVIEW:

A first look at Blanca’s executive chef, Nick Weber, and you wonder if he could spell “molecular gastronomy.” Talk to him for five minutes, and you are convinced he invented it.

He did not, but my guess is that he is well on his way to perfecting it, and it won’t be too long before he creates his own hip cooking process that lands him on Food Network.

Weber’s love of surfing and his easy-going demeanor could get him tagged as the surfing chef, but Spicoli from “Fast Times at Ridgemont High” he is not.

The 30-year-old new father is all grace and no guffaw, and don’t let the tattoos up and down both arms alarm you. They are as artistic as his cooking.

Blanca is his first real chance to let his creativity breathe, and so far, it is breathtaking.

Contrasts are what I found fascinating about the restaurant, both with the food and the décor.

We were given a small gift from the kitchen to begin our meal, standard in Weber’s world for special guests and friends. It was also a chance to show his knowledge of molecular gastronomy.

It was a simple heirloom tomato chunk with small noodles filled with balsamic vinaigrette. They were topped with fennel, Parmesan cheese and a lemon drizzle. The noodles popped in your mouth when you bit into them.

“I read about molecular gastronomy and was interested in it,” Weber said. “I like the science that is involved.”

That science looks at the relationship between the chemical process of cooking and how it relates to the artistic aspect of food. There are no boundaries, which appeals to Weber’s right brain.

That process does not apply to the first part of the menu, but Weber has made it just as creative. Crudo translates to “raw” in Italian and Spanish. Others have dubbed it European sushi.

The fish that Weber has selected for this portion of the menu is both tasty and provocative.

My favorite was the diver scallops that are served with truffle-marinated Shimeji mushrooms, black garlic and truffle salt.

There are different salts with each fish, including Murray River salt, Maldon salt, prawn salt and grey salt.

My Kampachi (Hawaiian yellowtail), which had basil sprouts and seeds, lemon oil and Filipino salt, was outstanding. The Scottish salmon with oven-dried baby tomatoes and tarragon was even better than the Kampachi.

My guest’s appetizer was organic soft-egg ravioli infused with brown butter, Parmesan, Porcini mushrooms and watercress.

The wild mushroom paella has three seasonal mushrooms. On this night it was Pporcini, Chanterelle and morel mushrooms. Added with the mushrooms were zucchini blossoms, olive oil aioli and black garlic.

My roasted diver scallops were large and firm, garnished with prosciutto in the shape of a needle-nose fish, complete with black pepper eye. Potato confit and a pickled melon vinaigrette came along and the grilled watermelon slice was unusual, but welcomed.

The restaurant is also a nice dichotomy between the inside and the outside.

When you first enter the open courtyard, there is a lounge to the left that Manager Ray Fuentes has utilized as a gathering spot for non-diners.

The dining room features high white booths, white line tablecloths, Pendant lamps and back lighting with magenta LED lights.

The outside black tables are arranged on the deck with Lido Isle views when the monstrous yachts aren’t docked.

We went on a night when the boats were in the harbor, and I found it equally as interesting a view, peering into the mammoth yachts.

This is a restaurant that should stay in the Lido Marina Village as long as Weber does and is already — in my opinion — one of the five best in the area.

ADDRESS: 3420 Via Oporto, Newport Beach

PHONE: (949) 673-0414

CUISINE: Euro-fusion, Continental and Asian

SPECIALTY DISH: Crudo

ALCOHOL SERVED: full bar

DRESS: dressy

FAMILY FRIENDLY: No

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: American Express, MasterCard and Visa

RATING: *** 1/2

JOHN REGER is the Pilot’s restaurant critic. His reviews run Thursdays.