RESTAURANT REVIEW:

When I saw that art hung on the walls and jazz musicians were in the bar, my impression of Bayside was one of a hip eatery that the young crowd would be flocking to in droves.

Throngs of people were there, but they were much older than I expected. It just goes to show that with age comes wisdom.

Just when I was thinking it was a shame the under-40 set hadn’t found this place, I realized it was probably better they hadn’t. Bayside works as a relaxed, upscale, classy bistro and polluting it with cougar hunters or hipster doofi who wouldn’t appreciate the culture of the restaurant would be a travesty.

The music was a trio of artists, one on a stand-up bass, and they played American standards and soft jazz. The sound level was perfect for both the bar and the adjoining dining room. It wafted toward our table and was not intrusive at all.

Neither was the art. The facility hosts a rotating modern art exhibit, featuring carefully selected works that enhance the ambience, pieces that are available for purchase.

The restaurant has a curator and Antoinette Sullivan of Studio Gallery selects national and international artists for a three-month display on the walls of Bayside.

It is a touch that is well appreciated. In addition to adding to the décor of the richly designed room, the art offered a chance for me to learn about a painter I did not know.

Though my girlfriend and I easily lowered the median age by 10 years, we did not feel out of place. The waiter made sure of that. He was incredibly attentive, personable and helpful, guiding us through the menu of entrees and appetizers I had not seen anywhere else.

We began with the smoked Tahitian marlin, which is prepared sashimi style. The chef’s friend catches the fish, smokes it and has it shipped exclusively to the restaurant. It was served with asparagus slices and a wasabi roe.

It has climbed into my top five appetizers that I have eaten this year. It was incredible. The smokiness of the fish and the tenderness of the paper thin slices made me clamor for more.

Our second starter was the compressed Maine lobster salad. It was a cylinder of lobster with a ceviche-like quality due to the lemon aioli and garnished with guacamole and cucumber.

This also was outstanding. The lobster was plentiful and mixed well with the greens and other items.

This dish was part of the restaurant’s three-course, prix fixe menu that included beef culotte steak and warm chocolate soufflé cake. My guest had that, and it was perfect for her since she wanted red meat.

The steak was cut thin and laid over the potato leek fondue that included Roquefort blue cheese and arugula pesto. It was a nice combination, and I was pleased with the quality of the meat.

I waffled between the house specialty, the venison loin medallions, or the paella.

I chose the paella and was not disappointed. Two large scallops and shrimp were mixed with chicken breast, halibut and andouille sausage. The risotto-like rice contained plenty of saffron, and it was a joy to eat.

The medallions I could have easily ordered, as the accompaniment of sautéed nectarine and potato gnocchi intrigued me.

Most of the menu piqued my interest. The entrees seemed inventive and a couple of others I want to try on future visits are the soy glazed organic salmon and the fusilli pasta with spicy Italian sausage.

This place has been an icon for many years and doesn’t need an infusion of youth. Its mature crowd and elegant nature should always be preserved.

ADDRESS: 900 Bayside Drive, Newport Beach

PHONE: (949) 721-1222

CUISINE: Traditional

ALCOHOL SERVED: Full bar

ENTRÉE PRICE RANGE: $19.75 to $33.75

FAMILY FRIENDLY: Not so much

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: American Express, Visa and MasterCard

RATING: *** 1/2

JOHN REGER reviews restaurants for the Independent.