SURFING SOAPBOX: Passing the surfing torch in Peru

My last day surfing in Peru a younger Peruvian boy paddled out into the lineup and directly into the fun three- to four-foot peaky waves. I could tell this boy was eager to prove to me that he was good. Perhaps more importantly, with three cameras following me this day, he also knew it was his time, his moment to shine.

He never looked at me once, as he paddled swiftly and directly past me for his first wave. He was cocky, to say the least. He wanted to show me up — and show the camera crew that he, too, was worth filming.

I sat back smiling, quietly cheering for this young surfer. Proud of him like he was a young brother of mine. Proud of him for wanting to seize the moment and being cocky enough to go out there and take it.

It was at that very moment I felt a symbolic torch had been passed. It was the first time in my surfing life that I felt my age. Because, much like him, I remember the moment when I was a young cocky surfer and Cheyne Horan, the former four-time world tour runner-up, was surfing in front of my parents’ house.

The very beach I grew up on — Pearl Street.

The year was 1989 and the next year, in 1990, Cheyne would stage one of the greatest comebacks in the world of professional surfing as he won the Billabong Pro at Sunset Beach.

Growing up on the sands of Laguna Beach, it can be misleading. The analogy of being a big fish in a small pond is an understatement. Laguna Beach is nothing short of a dream town to be fortunate enough to grow up in.

However, life outside Laguna is very different, and for some, like myself, it took a very long time to get used to. But I still remember that day the first-ever winner of the OP Pro paddled out and was surfing in front of my parents’ house. I was so determined to paddle out there and show him that this was my beach, no matter who he was — and I did.

Much like this young Peruvian boy showed me this was his beach — and I couldn’t have been more proud of him.

Peace.

JAMES PRIBRAM is a Laguna Beach native, professional surfer and John Kelly Environmental Award winner. His websites include AlohaSchoolofSurfing and ECOWarrior Surf.com. He can be reached at Jamo@Aloha SchoolofSurfing.com