RESTAURANT REVIEW:

My first exposure to El Ranchito was one night a few years ago when a friend and I were prowling around Newport Beach. We stopped in for a drink with the hopes of finding the perfect woman.

The more we drank the more that possibility was drifting away, and drowning your sorrows can actually build up a little appetite.

The bartender recommended the fresco burrito. We had calories galore with the margaritas we were drinking and the fresco was a better alternative to the regular burritos, though not by much, but at that point we really didn’t care.

This one doesn’t have sour cream in it and uses low-fat Monterey jack cheese. There is a choice of charbroiled chicken, steak or fish, usually cod, but sometimes mahi mahi. Stuffed in the burrito, which is served at room temperature, is pico de gallo, onions, cilantro, lettuce, tomatoes, rice and guacamole.

It was incredible and made me realize — at least at that moment — that I didn’t need liquor or women.

My romps up and down tavern-filled streets are very limited these days, but my returns to El Ranchito are not. I enjoy the location of the Huntington Beach restaurant, which has been open since 1999. It is far enough up Main Street to be on the fringe of the bar scene, but still allows access to it if that is desired.

The open dining area in the front of the facility reminds me of a cantina you would see in Rosarito and is covered so there are no worries about the elements. If cold is a concern, you can retreat deeper into the dining room.

Besides, a bowl of Mama Avila’s soup will warm you right up. The large bowl is worthy of entrée status and is filled with chicken breast, rice, vegetables and a smooth broth that had the taste of cilantro.

I’m not sure of its healing powers, but my friend had it and reported that the cold she was nursing seemed to lighten after eating the soup.

The soup is one of many recipes Mama Avila brought from Guanajuato, Mexico, nearly 40 years ago when the first restaurant was opened in Huntington Park.

Another specialty is the pollo Cuernavaca, which is chicken breast with Ortega chiles, onion, beans and rice. The salsa tomatillo is a nice touch and adds to the dish.

Pepe’s Special is another favorite. The grilled filet mignon and onion is lean and delicious with the chile added to it. It also comes with chicken, but I prefer the filet.

On my last visit I had a combination, and El Ranchito has eight items they offer to make a combination. The combinations are $10.95 for two items, and I didn’t see a possibility for a third item. I did see a one-item plate for $9.45, which struck me as not a combination at all, unless we are counting the rice and beans.

But I was more interested in food than semantics so I pressed on and ordered an enchilada de tomatillo and flautas. The enchilada is filled with chicken and then covered with the red tomato sauce and low-fat cheese. I couldn’t tell that it was low-fat cheese, and the dish was very enjoyable.

The flautas were more of a disappointment but that might have been because of my expectations. The last time I had flautas they were not fried like they are at El Ranchito. So when they came I was a bit surprised. They ended up tasting like a larger taquito.

The one item in the combination category that I would like to try is the chile relleno. The restaurant is famous for them, and it is really difficult to get an authentic home-made chile relleno, but I have had people rave about them to me.

Something that should also not be missed is the strawberry churros. The dish is covered in strawberry syrup and whipped cream. It is a decadent way to end a meal and a unique dessert that is a great alternative to flan or deep-fried ice cream.

AVILA’S EL RANCHITO

ADDRESS: 318 Main St., Huntington Beach

PHONE: (714) 960-9696

CUISINE: Mexican

SPECIALTY DISH: chile relleno

ALCOHOL SERVED: full bar

ENTRÉE PRICE RANGE: $3.95 to $15.95

FAMILY FRIENDLY: yes, six-item menu

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: American Express, MasterCard and Visa

RATING: 3 stars

JOHN REGER reviews restaurants for the Independent.