RESTAURANT REVIEW:

Having been to the Huntington Beach location, I was happy to see that Aloha Grill and Tiki Bar has expanded into Costa Mesa.

I was even more happy to see it kept the same menu, but certainly worked on making the atmosphere at the new location a little different.

The Hawaiian theme is more prevalent at the Huntington Beach location and certainly has a more beach-like feel, appropriate because it is about two blocks from the pier.

The Costa Mesa location takes on a more Polynesian theme, using tiki statues and torches, but acts more like a restaurant, than a club, which is more fitting to the Huntington Beach location.

Inside is lively for those who seek it. The bar and dining room have several 42-inch wide-screen televisions, and they are usually showing whatever sporting events are taking place.

Outside has a more relaxed atmosphere. I found it especially peaceful at lunch. The tables and chairs were comfortable, and even though it was a bit cool, the portable heaters kept us warm.

I was surprised at how efficiently the restaurant was running, despite being open only a couple of weeks when I visited. The décor was finished, and the wait staff seemed polished as well.

The only glitch was the menus. Theirs weren’t ready yet, so they were borrowing some from the Huntington Beach location.

The easiest way to sample many of the appetizers is to get the pupu platter. For $14.95 you get half-orders of calamari, Surf City roll, Maui Wowie rolls, Hawaiian drummettes and Chicken satay. All of these are offered separately, but it is a great option for those who can’t decide. The amount of food is ideal for two people and will keep you happy.

The calamari is thick slices, not the small rings served at a lot of places. They are Panko-breaded and flash-fried in peanut oil. The cooking method is great — there is no hint of greasiness and the flavor of the calamari is preserved.

The Surf City roll is one of my favorites, but there is a little trick to make them more enjoyable. The imitation crab is rolled with avocados, cucumbers and Chinese mustard-mayonnaise and then held in place with sticky Japanese rice wrapped in seaweed. The sushi rolls look fantastic but come out a bit cold and don’t taste good at all. The trick is to let them sit at room temperature for a while.

My favorite of the platter was probably the Maui Wowie Egg rolls. The ahi is prepared with Cajun spices and seared with blended roasted macadamia nuts, sweet Maui onions, green onions, cabbage and carrots wrapped in an egg roll and cut diagonally.

The mixture of ingredients was great and the egg roll was not heavy at all. It also appeared as if it was flash-fried because the texture was so light and without any hint of grease.

The marinated drummettes had a nice smoked teriyaki flavor and were baked rather than deep fried.

About the only item that was disappointing was the chicken satay. Well it wasn’t even really disappointing, just bland.

A favorite salad of mine is the smoked albacore Caesar. It is delicious and a new twist on a traditional salad.

One item that should be sampled are the tacos. I like the choices of pork, calamari or mahi mahi, I just wished they served a combination plate that featured all three.

With a clientele made for this restaurant it should thrive in the new location. Then we can look forward to even further expansion.

ALOHA GRILL

ADDRESS: 1749 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa

PHONE: (949) 722-7882

CUISINE: Hawaiian

SPECIALTY DISH: calamari tacos

ALCOHOL SERVED: Full bar

ENTRÉE PRICE RANGE: $6.95 to $13.95

FAMILY FRIENDLY: Yes, five item children’s menu

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: American Express, MasterCard, and Visa

RATING: *** of 4

JOHN REGER is the Pilot’s restaurant critic. His reviews run Thursdays.