RESTAURANT REVIEW:

My trips to the Newport Beach Peninsula are becoming less frequent. There are a few restaurants I like down there, but then again, this area has always been a party-friendly atmosphere.

Sunday night I thought I might escape that environment and I could sneak in a dinner at El Tarasco, a Mexican restaurant I have wanted to visit for a while.

Unfortunately my belief that the partying 20-somethings would take a day off was wrong and was exacerbated by the fact that it was an NFL playoff day.

As my girlfriend and I walked to the place from where we parked, we were on the boardwalk and were treated to two women who were apparently auditioning for a Girls Gone Wild video, embracing, kissing and then swearing at their boyfriends, who I thought might charge admission for the show.

About a block from the restaurant a shop owner was washing vomit off the sidewalk and was nice enough to warn us about a reveler’s faux pas.

El Tarasco was near empty, sans a couple in the corner finishing their dinner, and a customer sitting at the counter talking to the waitress.

The waitress told us to sit anywhere and, we chose a place away from the other couple, but near the counter in the waitress’ sight.

Like a lot of beach restaurants this place was casual, which wasn’t a surprise. I liked the colors of the wall and the portrait of Pancho Villa.

The restaurant is part of an eight-restaurant chain that was started by Celia and Moises Palomo, who opened the first restaurant in 1969 in Manhattan Beach.

It is definitely family-run with one of the couple’s daughters coming up with the Jr. Super Deluxe Burrito and a family-owned avocado ranch providing the fruit for the guacamole and slices for entrees.

Most of the food at the restaurant is homemade. The enchilada sauce I had was thicker than the canned stuff you see at a lot of comparable restaurants.

Cheese is definitely a focal point. It is on just about everything.

Jack and cheddar graced my enchilada, were on my beans and were spread on the chile relleno and potato taco my girlfriend ordered.

The potato taco had an interesting texture that was more mashed than chunks of potato that I have had at other places.

The chile relleno was a bit puzzling. The chile was not stuffed; instead, the cheese was wrapped around it with the egg on top of it.

It didn’t radically change the taste of the dish, just the nature, and it was barely noticeable.

I was just puzzled why they did it that way.

I wish I could say our waitress helped us answer that question, but that was way beyond the scope of her duties.

Her failings began when we asked for a margarita and when my girlfriend nearly choked on the strange taste. She told us after the fact that it was made with wine, not tequila.

The restaurant doesn’t have a full bar, so they have to improvise, but you might as well take it off the menu, or at least disclose that it is doctored.

We asked for water and didn’t get it. The third time she brought over one glass that I guess we were supposed to share.

After delivering the dinners, she didn’t come back to check on us and when her boyfriend came to visit, we had no hope of her coming back. I actually had to stand up like I was leaving for her to bring the check.

My 10% tip was generous considering the service and with the food good, but not outstanding, it would take a lot for me to come back.

EL TARASCO

ADDRESS: 221 W. Balboa Blvd., Newport Beach

PHONE: (949) 673-7311

CUISINE: Mexican

SPECIALTY DISH: Machaca

ALCOHOL SERVED: Beer and wine

ENTRÉE PRICE RANGE: $7.50 to $11.99

FAMILY FRIENDLY: Yes

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: American Express, MasterCard and Visa

Rating: ** 1/2

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants and may be contacted at Nolimepublishing@aol.com or P.O. Box 2984, Seal Beach, CA 90740.