THE GOSSIPING GOURMET: Much to please the palate at the Loft

Every time we hear about a change of chef at one of Laguna’s eateries, it means it’s time for us to go back and do another review. Even the very same dishes, prepared by a different hand, can vary enormously. So we were happy to return to the Loft at the Montage because the terrace is one of the prettiest spots on the California Coast and it has a sensational cheese bar, presided over by a fromagièr.

John Cuevas has left to take over the kitchen at the new Montage in Beverly Hills and taking his place (since November) is Chef Brian Black, who moved up the ranks from the MGM Grand, to Aqua at the St. Regis in Dana Point to sous chef at the Studio under James Boyce.

Even on a slightly chilly night, the patio with its spectacular view of the pool and the ocean looked warm and inviting, and indeed it was. One relaxes into the comfortable, summery white wood chairs, anticipating sybaritic pleasures to come. We were especially pleased because Terry’s daughter Emily was joining us for dinner. The servers make you feel as though you are an Oscar-nominated celebrity. They seem to anticipate your needs but are never intrusive.

A basket of warm breads arrived as we sipped our wine and made our choices. Our server mentioned to us that the fromagièr would be happy to come over and discuss cheese with us. We were definitely planning to order cheese but wanted to postpone the conversation until later in the meal. Please, when ordering, remember to leave room for this special experience.

The amuse bouche was a “pea pudding” in the shape of a tiny pyramid, sprinkled with micro greens and crispy bits of prosciutto. It was two bites of heaven; creamy, delicately flavored and punctuated with bits of crunchy saltiness.

Our dinner began with the Yali pear and parsnip soup. We had mentioned that we planned to share our meal and the waiter said that the kitchen would be happy to accommodate us, thus three bowls arrived, each with a little mound of delicious cubes of chestnut, squash and tangerine. Then the waiter poured the pureed soup from a silver carafe into each of the bowls. It was all quite elegant. However, the soup tasted predominantly of cream with just a hint of pear flavor coming through. It was too rich. A few spoonfuls of soup and the lovely chestnut mélange were enough.

Much more interesting were the organic udon noodles, again graciously divided into three portions. Providing a textural contrast to the buttery noodles were toasted pistachio nuts and sautéed wild mushrooms. This surprising combination of flavors was splendid. In addition, there was a dollop of lemongrass cream adding a touch of richness; as well as bits of rotisserie suckling pig, which were superfluous.

Finding a good piece of local swordfish is a challenge these days and so we were pleased when the thick pan-seared fish arrived perfectly cooked, carefully cut into an elliptical shape and lightly sauced with rosemary cream.

However, the distinctive swordfish flavor was somehow thin; it was more like “swordfish lite.” The accompaniment was a white corn tamale but in this land of fabulous tamales, it was disappointing, less fatty but also less flavorful with no chili kick, just some corn kernels to vary the texture.

We don’t usually order roast chicken in a restaurant because we all can do a very good job of it at home; in fact, it’s a matter of pride. But this fire-roasted bird sounded tempting and looked fabulous when presented at a neighboring table. The fact that the side dish was macaroni and cheese, clinched the deal. In this case, looks were deceiving. Fire-roasting added a nice smoky flavor but the chicken was seriously over-salted from a rub or overbrined. In addition, even the thigh meat was dry. We couldn’t even fill up on the macaroni with its Cocoa Cardona cheese. It was just humdrum “” the cheese flavor was too mild.

When our waiter came by to ask if everything was satisfactory, we had to say “no.” When we voiced our complaints, he immediately whisked the chicken off the table (and off our bill as well). He offered to bring us something else, but at this point we were ready to speak to the fromagièr. Charming and well-informed, she asked us what kind of cheeses we liked and made numerous suggestions. After a long and delightful conversation, we selected three with their accompaniments. In addition to an excellent array of cheeses, the Loft also offers an extensive choice of house made “fixings” such as crackers, jams and chutneys.

From Catalonia (a region in Spain), we tried a sharp goat cheese called Garrotxa, served with a lovely, delicate chutney.

Next, was a wonderful Rousse d’Argental, a semi-soft ewe’s milk cheese (brebis). It was deliciously paired with caramelized onions.

Last was raspberry Bella Ventana, an award-winning American cheddar with a very subtle underpinning of raspberry served with a jammy, raspberry, merlot reduction.

The cheeses were presented with dense raisin nut bread, sliced baguette and two kinds of house-made crackers. We all enjoyed this course immensely.

Although we didn’t consider ourselves to be messy, our napkins were whisked away and new ones were presented when we ordered dessert. The soufflé of the day was chocolate. Served in individual ramekins, it was dark, dense and happily not too sweet. The texture was less airy than we would have expected, more like a flourless chocolate cake with deep chocolate flavor. The waiter broke into it with a spoon and poured crème anglaise into the center with a flourish. A small scoop of cookies ‘n’ cream ice cream completed the presentation.

Too full, we had to pass on the amusing and tempting sounding “trio of house-made retro candy”: Kit Kats, Snickers and Rolos.

Dinner is no bargain, but the corkage fee is only $15.

IF YOU GO

WHAT: The Loft at the Montage; (949) 715-6420; montagelagunabeach.com

WHERE: 30801 Coast Hwy.

WHEN: ?

Breakfast: 6 to 11 a.m.

Lunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Intermezzo: 3 to 5 p.m.

Dinner: 5 to 10 p.m.

PRICES:

Appetizers: $18 to $26

Entrées: $34 to $46

Desserts: $14 WINE:

Bottles: $23 to $2,700

By the glass: $11 to $32

Corkage Fee: $15

ELLE HARROW and TERRY MARKOWITZ owned a la Carte for 20 years and can be reached at themarkos755@yahoo.com.