Restaurant Review:

Though many would argue that Skosh Monahan’s is a pub before it is a restaurant, I would respectfully disagree.

The restaurant, owned by Costa Mesa City Councilman Gary Monahan, has food that definitely classifies it as dining room first, drinking establishment second.

No primary pub would have food this good.

When a bar tries a menu, often the result is catastrophic. The best you can hope for is mediocre, but at Skosh Monahan’s, there is a much different outcome.

That was apparent on my first bite of the sliders from the appetizer menu. The three generously sized mini-burgers had meat that didn’t taste like it had languished in a refrigerator.

The burgers were incredibly fresh, the meat cooked medium and the cheese and grilled onions were generous as well.

The presentation of the sliders was what impressed me. Usually, they are put on a plate with nothing else, but these were served with rectangular onion rings adorned around and on top of the sliders.

My only complaint was that they weren’t able to substitute a bacon slider for one of the traditional ones.

The sliders are part of a pretty routine appetizer menu, which features nachos, mozzarella sticks, jalapeño poppers and chicken wings.

There are, however, some surprises in this section, including lamb skewers and pepper-seared ahi.

There are nice touches around the rest of the menu as well. Among the burgers are a grilled portabello burger and one with guacamole and Gouda cheese.

The usual and distinct can be found in the sandwich section. Mixed with BLT and corned beef sandwiches are blackened swordfish and a roasted veggie and avocado with tarragon and lime aioli.

My guest ordered the fish and chips, and the cod was both light and fresh. The batter, which is the same the onion rings are cooked in, was incredibly light, and I thought I detected the hint of beer in the golden brown batter.

The three pieces of fish were generous, as were the steak fries, which my guest quite enjoyed.

My entrée was the chicken parmigiano, and here is where I thought the chef missed a bit.

The panko-crusted chicken was cooked properly and the mozzarella on top was good with bits of fresh basil on top, but the sauce on the fettuccine was runny and tasted like it had been reheated.

I don’t think I would have that problem with the steaks or other meat and seafood the restaurant offers.

They are known for steaks and there are four to choose from, including a bacon-wrapped filet mignon and a rib eye.

The seafood, which includes swordfish and salmon, can be grilled or blackened and comes with jasmine rice.

Another piece of evidence that the restaurant is a primary focus is the wine list.

Though it is not extensive, it doesn’t have to be.

There are some quality selections by the bottle, including Chimney Rock and J. Lohr. Wines from places like Napa and Sonoma are alongside Italian and Argentina varietals, and the combination works well.

The glass of red that my guest ordered was a Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet, and it was a very strong one that makes for a strong house offering.

Though the establishment has a gluten-free menu and a children’s menu, there are signs of pub food with happy hour specials and a late-night menu.

The restaurant also has to compete with the noise from the bar, especially if Monahan’s dreaded San Francisco Giants are playing.

The front of the facility does provide a respite from the frivolity of the bar, but I quite enjoyed watching the sports highlights on one of the 10 plasma televisions that can be seen in the dining room area closest to the bar.

Despite the slight shortcoming of my entrée, I enjoyed the creativity of the menu, one that was recently overhauled by Monahan.

The dishes show originality, even if one or two miss the mark. This is a place that is a restaurant first, pub second, but both complement each other quite nicely.

Skosh Monahan’s

Address: 2000 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa

Phone: (949) 548-0099

Website: www.skoshmonahans.com

Cuisine: American

Specialty Dish: Steaks

Alcohol Served: Full bar

Entrée Price Range: $7.50 to $22.50

Family Friendly: Yes

Credit Cards Accepted: American Express, Discover, MasterCard and Visa

Rating: ***

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants and may be contacted at Nolimepublishing@aol.com or P.O. Box 2984, Seal Beach, CA 90740.