Restaurant Review:

There is no better time to be at the beach than now. It seems that after Labor Day, the inlanders retreat back to parts less serene and the locals reclaim their town.

The weather is still summer-like, though a nice marine layer creeps in and keeps things a little cooler.

Last weekend, I decided to invite some friends up to enjoy the beach without the throngs of people who were there less than a month ago.

They are a great couple with an 11-year-old son who loves the water only slightly more than their dog. After we had hit the dog beach, we came back to my place and then walked down to a restaurant that I knew he would like.

Kokomo’s is one of those places that was meant for families, but also has enough interesting items on the menu that it is good for just about anyone.

It isn’t complicated. Burgers and sandwiches dominate, but it’s those entrees that make it a little more special than the usual food shack at the beach.

The sandwiches are a good example. The tuna and avocado are two simple ingredients to this sandwich, but the tuna is as fresh as the avocado and, combined with the whole wheat bread, is simple and delicious at the same time.

The Castaway is a traditional triple-decker, but has ham, turkey and bacon on toasted sourdough.

The burgers are equally good. The Cowabunga burger is decadent, with thick onion rings and bacon that is cooked just right on a half-pound patty. It is served with American cheese and barbecue sauce that is tangy. I would change the bun for sourdough bread, which my other favorite burger, the Wipeout, is served on.

There are four salads, and my favorite would be the taco salad. I liked the shell, which didn’t taste like it had been sitting around for very long. I do detest beans in my chili, but that is a small price to pay for this dish.

The French fries are up for debate. They are the crinkle-cut type, and though many like those, I am not a fan. I tend to get onion rings instead.

I am a huge fan of their breakfast because of the breakfast burrito they serve. It is a large flour tortilla stuffed with bacon, sausage, chorizo or vegetables. I like the chorizo, but I tend to stick with the sausage. The cheddar cheese and eggs are plentiful because there are no hash browns to fill it up. Tater tots can be added for a dollar, but they are not needed.

The Tower 5 breakfast burrito makes the other one look like an appetizer. It is stuffed with bacon, mushroom, eggs, onions and avocado. It is incredibly good and they had no problem substituting sausage for bacon.

The Morning Cristo is another item I tend to recommend to anyone coming with me to breakfast. It is deep fried French toast stuffed with Swiss cheese and ham, and then dusted with powder sugar and served with syrup.

Omelet lovers may be dismayed to see only one, but there are enough items to add, including spinach or chorizo, that make it worth ordering.

During the summer, the place is open daily, but after Labor Day, it goes to weekends only. Hours are from 7:45 a.m. until 3 p.m. and both breakfast and lunch are worthy of a trip, especially now because you won’t be waiting in any long lines.

Kokomo’s Surfside Grill

Address: 21071 Pacific Coast Hwy., Huntington Beach

Phone: (714) 374-5600

Website: None

Cuisine: American

Specialty dish: Hamburgers

Alcohol served: None

Entrée price range: $3.99 to $7.99

Family friendly: Yes

Credit cards accepted: MasterCard and Visa

Rating: ***

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants and may be contacted at Nolimepublishing@aol.com or P.O. Box 2984, Seal Beach, CA 90740.