Restaurant Review:

It is both a good and bad thing that Alice’s Breakfast in the Park got a stay of execution from the City Council last year.

Good in the sense that we have now until Labor Day to enjoy this culinary treasure, and bad because the end will come sooner than we all realize.

I have made that mistake in the past. I just assume an icon will be around forever and neglect to visit it, figuring that I will get around to it at some point. Brown Derby and the original Spago are two that immediately come to mind that I didn’t get into, and now they are gone.

My goal was not to make the same mistake with Alice’s, and so far, I have made two visits and will try to increase that total immediately.

Besides being a legend, the restaurant is a fantastic place to eat breakfast. If you go for no other reason, go for the cinnamon rolls. They are world-famous and gigantic. One roll could easily feed two.

They are just part of the desserts that Mary Beth Gustafson bakes for diners and walk-in customers. There is also a variety of muffins and cookies, and if you can walk out the door without getting an oversized chocolate chip cookie, then you are a better person than me.

If you have a dog, bring them along, because Gustafson has a treat for them as well. For about a year, she has been baking dog biscuits that are in the shape of cookies, and they are made with vegetable beef, milk powder, whole wheat flour, brown rice, gelatin, eggs and corn oil.

My hope is, when the restaurant closes, that Gustafson has some outlet for these unbelievable pastries. She is planning on opening a bakery somewhere in Huntington Beach after the restaurant closes, and I plan to be one of the first in line.

Gustafson is the daughter of owner Alice Gustafson, who began the restaurant with her husband, John. John Gustafson also owned the End Café on the Huntington Beach Pier.

Alice Gustafson was occupying an old, red barn next to the lake in Central Park since 1980 when the city thought it could get more money by converting the building into a bistro that served beer and wine.

As they figuratively readied to throw an elderly woman in the streets, enough people protested and the council acquiesced, letting Gustafson stay until after Labor Day weekend 2010, when she will retire.

So I will try and enjoy as much of the food there as I can. When I went on a recent visit, I was happy to see that Frank Cooper was working as the chef. Cooper used to be a cook at Harry’s Grill in Sunset Beach, and I have always enjoyed his food.

One of the best reasons to go to Alice’s is the portions. They are generously large but do not sacrifice quantity for quality.

I recommend the biscuits and gravy, short stacks of pancakes and any omelet. On my last trip, I had a combo with eggs and hamburger patty, and it was very good.

What I think people should come for other than the breakfast or lunch is the atmosphere. This looks like every grandmother’s home in a rural area with dolls, cabinets, figurines and other country-style decorations on every available inch of wall, ceiling and floor.

The real shame is that in September it will be gone, so I am planning on trying to eat every item on the menu before it closes. Of course, I will have to wash it down with a cinnamon roll. Variety is nice, but there is something to be said for consistency as well.

Alice’s Breakfast in the Park

Address: 6622 Lakeview Drive, Huntington Beach

Phone: (714) 848-0690

Website: www.breakfastinthepark.com

Cuisine: American

Specialty dish: Cinnamon rolls

Alcohol served: None

Entrée price range: $4.95 to $9.95

Family friendly: Yes

Credit cards accepted: Cash or local check only

Rating: *** 1/2

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants and may be contacted at Nolimepublishing@aol.com or P.O. Box 2984, Seal Beach, CA 90740.