In The Pipeline:

“I don’t know how many tons,” he says pensively, this big, solid man dressed all in black, with jet-black hair and silver, longhorn-shaped bolo tie. “Near six tons — and that’s just prime rib.”

Six tons. Just prime rib. And he’s describing just what he’ll sell during the holiday season.

The man is Calvin Free, and the place is the Beef Palace.

This meat-worshiper’s mecca has been in Huntington Beach for 40 years now, opened by Free’s dad, the legendary butcher Melvin Free.

“He told me he was the greatest butcher who ever lived, and he may have been right,” Free chuckles as he moves around his so-spotless-you-could-eat- off-the-floor shop, like a kid in a candy store — only instead of candy, it’s top-grade steaks, hams, sausages, pork chops, ribs, lamb chops, tri-tips, filets, sushi-grade fish — and the prime rib that’s become the stuff of legend.

“We sell more prime rib at this time of year than any place in Southern California — maybe even the whole state,” Free says, examining a row of giant hindquarters that are hanging in full view behind the counter.

“This is part of the dry-aging process,” he says proudly, examining the racks the way Rocky did before pounding them. “We like customers to see part of how we do it, this four- to five-week process that makes what we consider to be the most tender, flavorful prime rib you’ll ever taste.”

Photos along the wall tell the story: dozens of customers lined up over the years as they wait for the gold — one of the Beef Palace’s prized, dry-aged prime ribs.

Of course, there’s more to the Beef Palace than just splendid prime rib. This is a shop that’s become a part of people’s lives over the years.

“I think it’s because my dad was an old-school butcher who, by the time he opened this shop, was well-known as a butcher. It was his life,” Free says, standing near a pyramid of marinades and barbecue sauces. “He understood that a community needed a neighborhood butcher that had the highest standards.”

Melvin Free, who started with his brothers in San Diego, died in the 1990s, but his son thinks of him often.

“I hear him in my head all the time,” he beams. “He set the standard and I just follow it.”

Free works himself to the bone (so to speak) to buy the best for his customers — many of whom have become more like fans than just mere clientele.

The grinding mill Free’s dad put out front so that customers could watch their fresh meat become bright red hamburger is still there, still used. But perhaps the most old-fashioned touch is Free himself, a boisterous, positive man who loves what he does and is not afraid to advertise it.

“Christmas is the time when we remind ourselves what it is we do,” he grins. “It’s our time to be at our best for folks.”

But Free makes sure the Beef Palace shines all year.

He recounts several years ago, when the city asked if he’d donate some hamburgers for a Fourth of July barbecue for the Marines at the Newland House.

“Hamburger?” Free laughs. “Not for the Marines. I said, ‘They eat rib eyes, and I’m cooking them.’”

Since then, the city has adopted the 3rd Battalion, 1st Marine Regiment, 1st Marine Division at Camp Pendleton and often, Free keeps them fed — with steaks.

As I talk with Free behind the busy counter, Kathleen Regan walks in to pick up the gift certificate that Free donates to the Village View Elementary School’s Grandparent’s Day basket. On the spot, Free doubles the amount.

“I’ve lived here 32 years,” Regan tells me. “As a little girl, we’d come in here and they’d give me a hot dog or some bologna while my mom shopped. Today, they do that for my two children, who are 10 and 8. And of course, my kids ride the cows.”

She speaks, of course, of the two giant ceramic cows at the front of the store — recognizable landmarks to anyone who has visited the shop.

Free knows he has a responsibility to customers like Regan, and others.

“After 9/11, I had little old ladies come in here, lifelong customers, asking me if I could sharpen their knives in case they needed to protect themselves. We’re connected to this community in ways I’m not sure I’ll ever understand,” Free shrugs. “But I love it.”

Now, if you’re reading this column the Thursday when the Independent comes out, I will tell you that you have just one day to order what may just be the world’s best prime rib from what is certainly one of the world’s best butcher shops and have it in time for Christmas.

The demand is just that great. You’ve been warned — order now.

A seasoned 10-pounder will be on the Epting table this Christmas.

Behind me, Free is laughing and kibitzing with customers, like they’re family. And in a way they are. This is a man who loves what he does — in a place that both he, and the community love. What a nice fit.

The Beef Palace is at 5895 Warner Ave., Huntington Beach. Call (714) 846-0044 for more information.

CHRIS EPTING is the author of 14 books, including the new “Huntington Beach Then & Now.” You can write him at chris@chrisepting.com .