The Coastal Gardener:

Two weeks ago we discussed one of the most basic of gardening tasks: digging a hole. Not surprisingly, I received lots of e-mails and encouraging comments about the column.

As I assumed, most gardeners had never been instructed on this fundamental skill.

With the heavy rains and winds we have been receiving I am seeing a lot of leaning trees, uprooted trees and snapped trunks. So this is a good week to answer another basic gardening question, “How do I stake a tree?”

The short answer is ... don’t.

Most trees that are staked do not need to be. Trees only need to be staked when their top growth significantly outweighs their root ball, which usually means the tree is root bound and not a good investment anyway.

However, if you must stake a tree, it is important that it be done correctly — most are not.

The diagram shows a properly staked tree, as well as some comments on the planting hole and soil.

The three cardinal sins of tree staking are: staking too tightly, staking too high and staking too long.

Most importantly, the goal of staking a tree is not to immobilize the tree trunk. This is an important misconception. If a tree does not move, it does not develop a strong trunk.

Tree trunks strengthen in response to wind and movement. Imagine if your arm were in a cast for a couple of years, with no bending, lifting or other movement. Once the cast were removed, your arm would be thin and incredibly weak.

A firmly staked tree is no different. Trees that are over-staked develop a dependency on the stake. Their trunks are thin and weak, and their root development is significantly reduced.

Not coincidentally, these incorrectly staked trees are the ones most of us saw in our neighborhoods this past week, blown over or snapped at the trunk.

Instead of immobilizing the tree trunk, the true goal of staking is to provide a little time for a newly planted tree to establish its roots into the surrounding soil and anchor itself.

In addition to not wanting to completely immobilize the tree, you also need to stake it only until its roots are established, which means one year, tops. Any longer, and it will tip over like a limp noodle when you un-stake it, just as your arm would after coming out of a two-year cast.

By the way, there’s a tip here: When you go shopping for a tree, don’t buy the tallest. Buy the one with the widest trunk; it’s the better investment.

To properly stake a tree, place two parallel stakes about a foot away from the trunk on two sides. Drive them firmly into the soil so that they’re perpendicular to the prevailing winds (which usually means north and south for us).

The ties should be placed as low as possible along the trunk and never higher than two-thirds the height of the tree, lower is better.

Tie the stakes to the tree using something broad and flexible. For small trees I prefer simple plastic tie-tape. It stretches with the tree and never scratches or cuts. Old nylons also work well, but the neighbors might talk.

Once the tree is anchored, usually following the first winter, it’s time to permanently remove the ties and stakes. Just as with getting the cast off, you want the tree to get some exercise.

A little blowing, bending and moving around will build a strong trunk; and you won’t have to worry about your tree being one of those that you just saw — unrooted or snapped at the trunk.

Ask Ron

Question: I’m having some erosion on my backyard slope. What is the best mulch for reducing erosion during the winter, as well as conserving water during the summer?

Dianne

Newport Coast

Answer: Shredded mulches are definitely the best. Either shredded redwood (my favorite) or shredded cedar is perfect for this. Use a thick layer, at least 2 to 3 inches. In the landscape trade this sort of mulch is called Gorilla Hair. Shredded wood mulches have an amazing ability to weave together and not wash or slide away on a slope, yet still allow air, water and nutrients to pass through. These are both made from timber waste, which would otherwise be disposed of, so they are environmentally correct as well.

ASK RON your toughest gardening questions, and the expert nursery staff at Roger’s Gardens will come up with an answer. Please include your name, phone number and city, and limit queries to 30 words or fewer. E-mail stumpthegardener@rogersgardens.com, or write to Plant Talk at Roger’s Gardens, 2301 San Joaquin Hills Road, Corona del Mar, CA 92625.

RON VANDERHOFF is the Nursery Manager at Roger’s Gardens, Corona del Mar.