Mailbag:

One of the two best restaurant meals I’ve ever been served came from the hands of Lulu DeRouen, the France-trained executive chef at Pinot Provence (“French fare stars at Pinot Provence,” Gossiping Gourmet, March 11). Last August, during “Provencal days,” we were approached by DeRouen, who asked whether we wanted to order from the menu or “could I cook for you?” We replied that her cooking for us would we just fine. She set up her utensils at a grill and prepared memorable courses using fresh California ingredients cooked the Provencal way.