Thai fare that sparkles with flavor

Gindi Thai reminds me of a Cover Girl ad—fresh and easy, light and breezy, and filled with beautiful people. The large windows, high ceilings, white and key lime décor, buzzing wait staff and raucous conversation make this a refreshing place for lunch or dinner in the Toluca Lake media district.

The food fits the atmosphere. Vibrant, fresh flavors like lime, mint and coconut stimulate the palate while colorful and artful platings stimulate the eye. Upon leaving, you feel nourished, yet light on your feet. Those with a heartier appetite might need to order a couple of things. And if you prefer your Thai food spicy, rather than sweet, be sure to clarify that with your server. Dishes tend to be on the sweet side.

Reservations are a wise idea. The place does a whopping lunch business. While the service does not seem rushed, they do move you in and out at a quick pace, much to the appreciation of patrons needing to get back to work at nearby studios. I can’t say the staff is overly friendly, but they are efficient.

One can order off the pricier main menu, which boasts items like Green Curry Short Ribs ($20) or Chilean Sea Bass in Tamarind Sauce ($19). But for $8 to $10, I recommend the Lunch Menu choices, which come with a lively green salad, a crispy spring roll and a mound of deep-purple unmilled rice.

My lunch mates and I tried the Yellow Potato Curry, a creamy blend of carrots, tofu and spuds in a delicate coconut milk curry; the Tangy Thai Cashew Shrimp, with onions, dried chilies and a densely flavored dark sauce that bordered on cloyingly sweet; and Salmon in Pineapple Curry, flavorful but again, almost too sweet.

What will bring me back to Gindi Thai is their phenomenal Tom Kah Noodle Soup ($5.50 a la carte or $8.95 on lunch special). In this bowl lie the flavors and textures I equate with Thai food — a perfect blend of tangy, creamy, salty, herby and chewy. A lovely Creamsicle-colored broth holds tender chicken, Asian mushrooms, lemongrass diagonals, kaffir lime leaves and the piquant flavor of kah, an ingredient similar to ginger. When you place the accompanying rice noodles in the bowl, every ounce of the exquisite broth can be slurped up.

Gindi Thai has a fun, noisy, communal feel to it, not a romantic one. It has an inspired appetizer menu and a full bar, with creative cocktails. It would be an enjoyable after-work destination or a breezy spot for a fresh, lively meal.

Lisa Dupuy has been writing about local restaurants since 2008. She welcomes comments at LDupuy@aol.com

Infobox

What: Gindi Thai

Where: 4017 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank

When: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday

Prices: Lunch specials, $7.95 to $13.50; Sushi, salads and noodles, $9 to $17; Seafood and meat specialties, $13 to $22

Contact: (818) 567-1221 or visit www.gindithai.com