Dining Review: A distinctive mingling of Mediterranean tastes

I had never been to Portobello’s in Montrose before. It worried me that when all the other restaurants in town were hopping, Portobello’s sometimes sat quiet. Now that I’ve been there and thoroughly enjoyed it, I have a theory. Portobello’s has been misunderstood.

The food is somewhere between Italian and Greek. If a person is craving Italian, they may go to Cafe Sole or Divina Cucina or Fratelli’s. If they want Greek, they’d head to Glendale or opt for one of the Middle Eastern restaurants close by. I suggest that you go out on a limb and put yourself in the hands of the chefs at Portobello’s. Try their distinctive take on Italian-Mediterranean cuisine.

The decor inside Portobello’s is inviting, but I prefer the outdoor tables. There’s street-level seating as well as tables on an elevated platform where one can get a different perspective on the always amusing goings-on in Montrose. Sipping the velvety house Cabernet or icy cold Fat Tire Ale in a chilled mug is even better with their complimentary onion rolls and fresh pesto. We added the antipasto platter ($11), each slice of charcuterie flaunting its own unique character: spicy salami with drops of sweet balsamic, heady provolone, delicate mortadella. Supporting roles were played by pepperoncini, tender artichoke hearts and racy roasted bell peppers. We might have gotten shrimp Santorini or spanikopita as an appetizer as well, not to mention numerous salads and soups.

Our dinner choices were fitting representations of this so-called Italian-Greek fusion. The linguine puttanesca ($14) features Kalamata olives instead of black or Spanish along with the capers, garlic and marinara. Mushrooms are just an added benefit. What screams Italian though is the perfectly cooked, piping hot pasta. The gyro pizza ($15) features lamb and tomatoes with less of an air-pocket studded Neapolitan crust and more of a tasty hand-tossed rustic crust.

My favorite taste of the night was the capellini chicken limone ($15). Bell peppers, onion, spinach, chicken and herbs are tossed with thin capellini in a lemony, garlicky white wine sauce. Not a dish you’d find at every Italian restaurant but something I’d go back to Portobello’s for. The sauces tend not to be on the creamy side at Portobello’s though you can get your alfredo or carbonara sauces if you’re hankering for them.

We were delighted with our waiter and especially our busser. They went out of their way to be accommodating and friendly. Their professionalism definitely added to our pleasant experience.

We ate too much of the delicious bread and other goodies to leave room for dessert, but I’m betting their espresso and tiramisu is respectable. Stopping by for dessert is an interesting prospect as is lunch with friends. Lunchtime sees an almost identical menu to dinner though prices are one dollar less on average.

Break out of that Italian pasta shell and try Portobello’s in Montrose.
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LISA DUPUY welcomes comments at LDupuy@aol.com or at Facebook/UtensilTown.

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Infobox

What: Portobello’s Italian and Mediterranean Cuisine

Where: 2235 Honolulu Ave., Montrose

When: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; closed Tuesdays

Prices: Appetizers, $4 to $12; pastas and pizzas, $12 to $23, secondi $16 to $26

Contact: (818) 957-7524; www.portobellosmontrose.com