Dining Review: Rubio’s Coastal Grill dives into new territory

I’m breaking with tradition on two counts today. First, I’m writing about a major chain restaurant and second, I got free food there. Normally I don’t accept free food, but I wanted to go to this press event to hear a good explanation of the changes in store at Rubio’s Fresh Mexican Grill. Make that Rubio’s Coastal Grill, their new name.

As I’ve said in the past, fish tacos are pretty much my favorite food. That passion started more than 30 years ago when a college friend took me to “this new place called Rubio’s” in San Diego. The tacos, made from a recipe inspired by trips to San Felipe, were so delicious they ushered in a new trend. Today fish tacos can be found all over town, so it only makes sense that Rubio’s is expanding its concept. The Glendale store is one of the first to get the face-lift.
At this press event, I was delighted to speak with co-founder Ralph Rubio, one of the most gracious, down-to-earth millionaires I’ve had the pleasure to meet. He took that first Rubio’s, housed in a renovated Orange Julius stand, and built a collection of 193 restaurants in five states, yet he has the curiosity and enthusiasm of a young chef. Today Ralph Rubio serves as “head of culinary” for Rubio’s where he oversees menu development and is involved with marketing, real estate and restaurant design.

So is the new look successful? I have to say I miss the surfer chic decor with its Mexican palapas and laid-back atmosphere. And where’s the San Felipe story on the wall? The new look is lovely though. It’s cleaner, more airy and modern with images of the ocean rather than beach-side huts. It evokes Rubio’s new commitment to sustainable seafood and health-conscious combinations. For instance their tilapia hails from Regal Springs, the first aquafarm in the world to earn the International Standards for Responsible Tilapia Aquaculture, a rigorous standard that ranks fish farms on seven environmental and social-impact principles.

One can taste the freshness of the fish in every bite. The star of the chipotle orange salad, for instance, is the fist-sized piece of grilled Pacific mahi mahi. Fire-roasted corn, Fresno chiles, avocado, black beans and farmers-market-quality greens with chipotle-orange vinaigrette round out the flavors. At $8.29, it’s a good deal of nutrition for your dollar.

The blackened tilapia taco is rubbed with a house mix of paprika, thyme, and black, white and red pepper then cooked on a comal, a traditional Mexican cast iron griddle. Fabulous with the cilantro-serrano slaw, salsa fresca and creamy chipotle sauce ($3.69 each), I recommend this above all else.

Except the salsa verde shrimp taco. It runs a close second. The hot grilled shrimps pop in your mouth, the avocado, cheese, cilantro, onion and cabbage add crunch and texture ($3.99 each). For something really different, get it grilled gourmet style. Here the tortilla is toasted with a blend of cheeses, bacon and two chile sauces ($4.29 each).

You’d have to be a light eater to be satisfied with one taco. The best deal is the two-taco plate (mixing and matching allowed), which comes with “no-fried” pinto beans and chips. The burritos are sizable and I’m looking forward to trying their house-blackened Atlantic salmon one on my next visit ($8.29).

Besides the new look and menu choices, what else has changed? Well, I’d never seen craft beer, Mexican beer and sangria on the menu before ($3.95 to $4.50). What hasn’t changed? Rubio’s original fish taco, that battered and fried classic with white sauce and cabbage, is still prominent on the menu, thank goodness ($2.99). And they still offer endless portions of their excellent roasted salsas.

So it looks like Rubio’s is all grown up. I, for one, am glad of it.

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What: Rubio’s Coastal Grill

Where: 249 N. Glendale Ave., Suite B, Glendale

When: Sunday to Thursday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Contact: (818) 548-4214; www.rubios.com.

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LISA DUPUY welcomes comments and suggestions at LDupuy@aol.com.