Marquee

Dining Review: The Americana lands legendary Din Tai Fung

Juicy pork dumplings from Din Tai Fung at the Americana at Brand in Glendale on Thursday, Nov. 7, 2013.

(Raul Roa / Staff Photographer )

Juicy pork dumplings from Din Tai Fung at the Americana at Brand in Glendale on Thursday, Nov. 7, 2013.

By Lisa Dupuy

October 25, 2013

The dumplings at Din Tai Fung are practically world famous. Started in Taiwan by the Yang family way back in 1958, Din Tai Fung now has more than 70 restaurants in 10 countries, many of them, including the two in nearby Arcadia, with waiting lines of an hour or more. When Rick Caruso, developer of the Americana at Brand, tasted those legendary dumplings five years ago, he was smitten and knew Din Tai Fung had to be a part of the Glendale shopping and entertainment mecca. “We called them at least 100 times,” recalls Caruso. Finally, last week the lovely, unassuming Yang family cut the ribbon at their latest branch, a gorgeous glass and scroll-cut wood affair near the northeast corner of the Americana.

There will be no hourlong waits at this restaurant. The crowds are still destined to come, but instead of standing in line, the friendly faces at the front desk will take your cellphone number and shoot you a text five minutes before your table is ready. That way you have time to finish your shopping in the Americana and stroll over.

Instead of shopping, however, you may choose to wait at the bar, an uncommon sight at a Din Tai Fung. This nicely stocked drinkery features all the regular cocktails plus a list of Asian-inspired specialty drinks, the most exotic ingredient being lychee. Or you may simply opt to watch the mesmerizing handiwork of the dumpling makers behind the glass wall.

In any case, when you are finally seated, don't be surprised to see a staff of 30 or more carrying tin after tin of dumplings, bao and wonton with well-trained professionalism. I learned the difference between the three steamed parcels by speaking to some fellow diners. Standard Chinese dumplings are half-circle-shaped, the filling “dry.” This does not mean it's dried up, but rather that it does not include broth. I've had the good fortune to eat at Din Tai Fung in Shanghai and the dumplings I fondly remember were round and filled with hot broth. These, my friends informed me, are called xiao long bao. I thought bao were the larger, meat-filled, fluffy buns. I came to learn bao can be smaller and made with partially raised flour yielding a more delicate bundle when steamed. To confuse matters more, at Din Tai Fung they call xiao long bao juicy dumplings. These are the ones to get.

Customers pack Din Tai Fung at the Americana at Brand in Glendale on Thursday, Nov. 7, 2013.

(Raul Roa / Staff Photographer )

Customers pack Din Tai Fung at the Americana at Brand in Glendale on Thursday, Nov. 7, 2013.

The Shanghai dumplings have truly reached the status of mythic in my mind. They were perfect round purses of tender pork, hot savory broth making the delicate parcel sag, the translucent dough threatening to break but holding strong. I placed the dumpling in my spoon and bit a tiny hole to let the steam out. After adding some ginger-soaked black rice vinegar and soy sauce, I slurped the tiny world of goodness down. Perfection. Was the experience at Din Tai Fung Glendale the same? Well, nothing's ever as good the second time around but it came pretty close.

One thing I didn't have in Shanghai but adored in Glendale was the shrimp and pork wonton with spicy sauce ($9). In this dish, the “dry” fillings are wrapped in square, not round, dough. They come swimming in a delicious spicy sauce and sprinkled with a liberal amount of green onions. Another unique treat is the truffle dumpling. Traditionally served to visiting dignitaries, these parcels of truffles and mushrooms are fragrant and decadent enough to require only one per person. At $22.50 for five , that's a good thing.

The Shanghai rice cake with shrimp from Din Tai Fung at the Americana at Brand in Glendale on Thursday, Nov. 7, 2013.

(Raul Roa / Staff Photographer )

The Shanghai rice cake with shrimp from Din Tai Fung at the Americana at Brand in Glendale on Thursday, Nov. 7, 2013.

There are a number of meat, vegetable and noodle plates on the menu typically prepared in the Taiwanese or Shanghainese style. Selections for vegetarians and gluten-free eaters are designated throughout the menu, particularly in the appetizer section. The soy noodle salad has tendrils of chewy tofu and slivers of celery and carrot in a sprightly dressing ($4). The seaweed and bean curd salad has bean sprouts, red pepper and vermicelli in a tangy soy sesame dressing ($4). We loved the cold dressed fungus and the spicy cucumber was a bold palate cleanser (both $4).

The Taiwanese hot tea (oolong or jasmine) is particularly wonderful with its flowery aroma and constant refills out of a chrome teapot. Dumplings and tea — a perfect way to recharge after a day of shopping. Dumplings and cocktails — even better before a movie. Either way, Din Tai Fung is yet another reason to spend some time at the Americana.

--

LISA DUPUY welcomes comments at LDupuy@aol.com.