Dining Review: The proof is on the plate

Frankie’s Italian Kitchen has been a Tarzana mainstay since 1993. They recently brought their unique brand of tasty, comforting fare to the Burbank media district. Situated in what was previously Luca’s Italian Kitchen, in a shopping mall anchored by a Vons, and courageously next door to a legendary Burbank Italian joint (Sardo’s), Frankie’s Italian Kitchen is already pulling in a steady stream of customers.

In contrast to Sardo’s kitschy vintage Italian vibe and $8 spaghetti, Frankie’s Italian Kitchen has a tame, contemporary ambience and fourteen-dollar spaghetti. The uninspired decor is a holdover from the old Luca’s, but the food is deliciously Frankie’s.

Frankie’s Italian Kitchen gained a reputation in Tarzana for serving family-made favorites like Shelly’s Shrimp or any one of the pasta sauces whipped up fresh every day for 25 years by Justino Brambila, father to current owner Lionel Brambila. Lionel’s wife Ivonne creates the desserts — tiramisu, carrot cake, chocolate chip cannolis and some incredible-looking chocolate cake.

I tend to trust menu items named after people and this restaurant looked like the kind of place to get baked pasta. Therefore, I chose Jan’s Baked Mostaccioli ($13.99). The piping hot pasta dish has a lusty red sauce fragrant with tomato paste (probably homemade) and oregano. It packs a natural sweetness and holds chunks of tender stewed beef, not ground. Covered in ridiculously gooey mozzarella, it satisfies the soul.

If I were to come back, however, I’d get the Fresh Clams Linguine ($17.99). Chock-full of clam bits and whole, steamed littlenecks, this bowl of toothy linguine is unabashedly bathed in a garlicky, buttery white sauce. Decadent and comforting, it reminded me of my favorite long-gone Italian restaurant in Pasadena, Buono Corso’s. My only complaint was there was no bread to sop up the deliciousness at the bottom of the bowl. They only give you one fancy garlic roll per person. I’d much rather have a half-loaf of plain Italian bread.

We kept our Chopped Italian Salad ($11.99) to nosh on throughout the meal. The large, fresh mixture was tasty at the start and got better with every bite.

The wine is just OK and kind of pricey at $8 for a 6-ounce pour. Better to bring your own. For a $7.50 corkage fee, you can pour as many glasses as you like. I noticed the next table was even offered a wine chiller for their white. John, the only server the night we were there, deftly handled the six or more tables with a cheerful attitude and impeccable timing. Even the guests outside weren’t ignored. There is an outdoor dining area, but it’s not charming and looks out on a parking lot.

The many studios and businesses nearby should take note of Frankie’s current promotion. From 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays, they offer an $11 lunch box. You get a choice of two daily entrees, a salad, drink and dessert. This deal is for takeout or delivery only, which is perfect for folks on the run.

If you’re looking for refined Italian trattoria atmosphere, you may want to go elsewhere. But if you’re looking for refined Italian trattoria comfort food, bring a bottle of wine and a friend to Frankie’s Italian Kitchen.

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What: Frankie’s Italian Kitchen

Where: 267 N. Pass Ave., Burbank

When: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 4 to 9 p.m.

Prices: chopped salads, $7.99 to $11.99; pizzas, $10.99 and up; pastas and entrees, $11.99 to $22.99; Ivonne’s homemade desserts, $6.49 to $7.95

Contact: (818) 567-2288; www.frankiesitaliankitchen.com

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LISA DUPUY has written for Times Community News, Arroyo Monthly and Westways.