Dining review: In with the Canoe House

Anyone who’s been to Hawaii or seen “The Descendants” knows that island-themed restaurants are not really authentic, but that doesn’t mean they’re not as fun as a bike ride down Haleakala. These mythic environments of surfboards and canoes, of bamboo huts and tiki masks, are escapes, little vacations from our workaday world.

When co-owners Randy Hoffman and David Yost shuttered their old Wild Thyme Cafe in South Pasadena and used their clever interior design skills to resurrect it as the Hawaiian-themed Canoe House, they created a new place for local families to take a mini-vacation. More “Lilo & Stitch” than Trader Vic’s, their venue sports the above-mentioned motifs plus a cozy outdoor fire pit, a quaint tropical bar, a banquet-sized Paddle Room and a family-friendly menu.

There are no big surprises on the burger/sandwich/salad menu, but what is surprising is how distinctly different each dish tastes. The oven-roasted pork in their Kalua pulled pork sandwich ($8.50) has deep, earthy undertones like Mauna Loa lava rock, while the juicy garlic pepper turkey burger ($7.95) shamelessly wears its bold seasonings like a bikini-clad wahine on Waikiki. It’s honestly one of the best turkey burgers I’ve had.

We were pleased with the juiciness of all the meats. The blackened mahi-mahi sandwich ($9.95) featured a wonderfully moist filet; however, it wasn’t truly blackened. There was just a sprinkling of blackening spice curiously confined to the middle of the fish. All the sandwiches came on a delightful soft, eggy bun similar to King’s Hawaiian bread.

Of the sides, which cost up to $2 extra, I’d rank sweet potato and shoestring fries first, pineapple slaw second and macaroni salad in last place.

The island BBQ chicken salad ($10.25) is typical of the fusion attitude of Hawaiian-born chef Strider Shirtluff. The salad’s jicama, black beans, avocado and cilantro tip their hat to contemporary Mexican fare (as do menu items like Kalua pork nachos and seared ahi tacos), but the chicken on top is glazed with a tangy Hawaiian barbecue sauce. It all works together nicely.

None of the plates here are huge, so there will probably be room for dessert. The pineapple upside-down cake ($5.50) is heavenly, with its fluffy warm center, brown-sugar-crisped outside, and coconut ice cream accompaniment.

My big mistake of the evening was agreeing with the waitress’ suggestion to try their signature cocktail, the Lava Flow ($8.25). It’s lovely to look at with its swirl of coconut cream and strawberry syrup, but far too sweet and thick for my taste. My husband’s Mai Tai was better, but give me Damon’s Mai Tai any day. There are many more tropical cocktail options to choose from and daily happy hour specials to enjoy them at.

Other than the Lava Flow debacle, which of course was not the wait staff’s fault, the service was great. Fast and professional, they delivered things hot and accurately. The atmosphere is fun and easygoing, the food is generally well prepared, and the prices are fair. Considering the constant crowd there, the community must be saying “mahalo” for Canoe House.

LISA DUPUY has written about food, travel and entertainment for 25 years. She welcomes comments at LDupuy@aol.com.

Canoe House

Where: 805 Fair Oaks Ave., South Pasadena

When: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Prices: Burgers, sandwiches, tacos, pupus and salads $7.25-$10.25; Beer, wine and cocktails $4-$8

Contact: (626) 799-4169; www.canoehouserestaurant.com