Say Olè to Los Gringos Locos

Tacos, tostadas, fajitas, oh my! Just because it’s “gringo” food doesn’t mean it can’t be tasty, fresh and fun. Los Gringos Locos in La Cañada Flintridge is a popular spot for just this reason, serving up California versions of Mexican favorites in a cheerful atmosphere.

The folk-art painted walls create a seaside village feeling that is definitely family friendly. Oilcloth-covered tables and crayons add to the welcome, and the place is just noisy enough to invite smaller diners. Servers may be bustling on busy nights, but they still manage to be attentive and smiling.

That tap-dancing sound that rat-a-tats through the room emanates from the rolling guacamole cart, where a spoon-wielding attendant will create a custom avocado masterpiece to your specifications -- extra chile heat, no onions, more cilantro -- whatever your palate requires ($7.79).

Our family judges a Mexican restaurant by several factors. For the grown-ups, Margaritas have got to be good, and these don’t disappoint. My favorite is the Pink Gringo Cadillac, with a splash of cranberry juice. Another criterion is what hot sauce bottles grace the table, and Cholula, with its jaunty wooden cap, is a good sign.

Another plus is a good bowl of tortilla soup and Gringos delivers a somewhat spicy broth, studded with chunks of chicken, chile “rajas,” celery, onion and tomatoes (cup $1.59, bowl $2.99). It may not cure a common cold, but it will make you feel better, guaranteed. Salads are fresh and crisp, with confetti of carrots, red cabbage, tomatoes, bell peppers and corn.

Another test of a good Mexican place are the tamales. Do they even serve them? Are they worth serving, or just reheated, mass produced blobs of masa? Los Gringos passes the test. The tamales (beef, pork and green corn, in season) are served sans husk, covered in sauce and melted cheese, with a great ratio of fluffy, corny masa and tender, well-seasoned meat or vegetable filling ($3.29 to 3.79, ala carte).

There are a few more authentic menu options, often including the daily specials. Pollo sonora features tender, moist chicken breast in red sauce, with avocado, green chiles and cheese ($9.99 with rice and beans). A special I plan to return to try is the chile relleno en hogada ($9.95), roasted pasilla chiles stuffed with picadillo beef and vegetables, with creamy walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds. Are there more authentic Mexican restaurants out there? Sure. But Los Gringos Locos delivers tasty tacos (and more) in a festive, friendly atmosphere that brings locals back for more.

FYI

WHAT: Los Gringos Locos

WHEN: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday

WHERE: 464 Foothill Blvd., La Cañada Flintridge

COST: $3.29 to $16.99

CONTACT: (818) 790-2696

* CHERIE MERCER TWOHY teaches cooking in La Cañada Flintridge. She can be reached at www.chezcherie.com.