It’s Ribs U.S.A. for barbecue

dineLeave your fancy duds and your pretense behind and enter an authentic American roadhouse -- Ribs U.S.A. in Burbank. Scoop a basket of peanuts from the barrel by the door and make your way across the sawdust-covered floor to a plywood booth.

Drinks appear practically instantly and soon you’ll be washing down those peanuts with glasses of tea, soda, beer or wine. Go ahead and toss the shells on the floor, that’s where they belong at this laid-back, friendly, down-home eatery.

Of course, you are probably there for the ribs, and it is more than likely you’ll love ‘em. The baby back ribs are described as mouth-watering and I couldn’t agree more. Just the aroma of the nicely balanced sweet barbecue sauce had me drooling like Pavlov’s dog. The ribs are meaty and fall-off-the-bone tender. The barbecue chicken is likewise tasty and tender. For the more health-conscious among us, the menu includes a boneless, skinless breast of chicken prepared with barbecue or teriyaki sauce.

The catfish is terrific. Fresh fillets are marinated in beer, lightly breaded with cornmeal and spices, then flash fried, just enough to cook the inside to tender, moist perfection and give the outside a pleasing crunch. Served with a Tabasco-based sauce on the side, it is so good that even my mom in South Carolina would approve.

More barbecued goodness can be found in the pulled pork steeped in a piquant sauce. Salads and sides include a competently prepared Caesar and terrific baked beans in barbecue sauce.

FYI

WHAT: Ribs U.S.A.

WHEN: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday

WHERE: 2711 W. Olive Ave., Burbank

COST: Lunch $6.90 to $9.95, Dinner $7.95. to $22.95

EXTRAS: Catering; magician every Tuesday night

CONTACT: Phone (818) 841-8872, fax (818) 841-6769 and website www.ribsusa.com

* BILL SCOLLON is a Burbank resident and president of Scollon Media Arts. You can reach him at ewscollonhotmail.com.