Dining Review: Gus’s BBQ remains a winner
Who doesn’t know about Gus’s BBQ in South Pasadena? The iconic neon sign has been beckoning passersby since 1946 when the brothers Tripodes started serving up classic American barbecue. In 2008, ownership changed to the brothers Bicos whose family also runs east Pasadena landmark, the Original Tops. That’s a lot of Pasadena cred, so the question is, has Gus’s credibility held up?
I remember enjoying their rack of ribs back in 1987 when my brother had a raucous wedding rehearsal dinner there. I remember enjoying their rack of ribs a few years ago at another fun party. I know their ribs are credible. This time I came for the chicken.
A local friend informed me that everyone goes to Gus’s for the barbecue but the thing to order is their Southern fried chicken ($16.95). Fried chicken is something I love. The only problem is, it makes my eyes puffy. It’s the salt, I guess, or the grease. I went for it anyway. This plate of juicy boneless chicken — why mess with pesky bones? — arrived like Cleopatra on her barge, a shapely form with gorgeous golden brown skin. It was crispy and delicate like fried chicken should be with little greasiness or saltiness. But like a beautiful woman with no personality, it didn’t sparkle. Maybe fried chicken needs salt or grease, or bones for that matter. While it wasn’t earth-shattering, at least Gus’s fried chicken did not make my eyes puffy.
The thing that did sparkle for us was the beef brisket sandwich ($10.95). Steeped in beer and smoked for up to 16 hours, the Texas-style brisket drenched in barbecue sauce gets a fierce punch from Gus’s horseradish and Dijon-packed house spread. The ciabatta-style bun is just right for holding it all. It could not be improved upon by any of the tasty sauces on the table.
Being a sauce-aholic myself, I was thrilled to see that Gus’s is an enabler. They push garlic aioli and ranch dressing for the sweet potato fries, jalapeno jelly and honey butter for the outstanding corn bread, apple cider gravy for the mashed potatoes and vinegar-y hot sauce for everything. The wait staff happily fulfills any special request. The service overall is excellent. They take orders quickly, fill drinks regularly, deliver food piping hot and pack up leftovers with a smile.
Lunchtime brought in a packed crowd. I saw happy eaters devouring large salads, fat burgers, and a good-looking catfish sandwich with tail and head sticking out of the bun like a Tex Avery cartoon. The dining room is cozy and comfortable with enough noise to make it a hotshot but enough muffling to make it a conversation spot.
So does Gus’s hold up? I’d say yes. It’s got a winning formula of satisfying food at a reasonable price in comforting surroundings. I noticed a promising Happy Hour menu on the blackboard at the handsome full bar. But that’s a story for another day.
What: Gus’s Barbecue
Where: 808 Fair Oaks, South Pasadena
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday, 8:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 8:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Prices: Salads, sandwiches, appetizers $5.95 to $13.95; Barbecue entrees $11.95 to $28.95
Contact: (626) 799-3251; www.gussbbq.com
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LISA DUPUY welcomes comments and suggestions at LDupuy@aol.com.