Dining Review: Seasoned, satisfying Iraqi cuisine

Massif Mediterranean Grill just opened its doors to the general public last Sunday. They serve kebabs and falafels, shawarma and lule like many other restaurants in Glendale. But this is the first time I’ve seen a Glendale kebab place that also serves Iraqi specialties. Massif is that place, and it’s worth a try.

Under the supervision of Chef Margos Margos and proprietor Aram Armenak, Massif cranks out a wide variety of unique dishes at fair prices. The first dish Chef Margos pointed out to me is the kibbeh Mosul, a saucer type of kibbeh (bulgur, onion and finely ground meat) filled with seasoned ground beef ($8). I’m used to seeing kibbeh as little football-shaped croquettes. Kibbeh Mosul is more like a moist, whole-grain pancake with cinnamon-laced meat inside or as my son called it, “a gingerbread soujouk quesadilla.” It’s fun and satisfying, especially with a side like hummus or jajik (yogurt and mint).

Shawarma is not unique to Iraq but I knew this one would be a little different. I chose the chicken shawarma made into a wrap with garlic paste (as opposed to tahini). The chicken is sliced fresh off the spit and folded up with tomatoes, onions, and lettuce ($5.99). Instead of the tangy, yogurty flavors one often finds with a Middle Eastern wrap, this shawarma is almost sweet with heady spices like cardamom and cinnamon. Very moist and tasty even without dripping sauces.

Foul, those large, dark brown fava beans, come with lemon, tahini, garlic, olive oil, slivered onions, tomatoes and pickled veggies on the side ($5.99). The consistency and flavors are satisfying and I imagine it’s quite nutritious. They recommend it for breakfast. Massif Grill also serves kahi for breakfast, a delightful puff pastry served with their house syrup for only $1. Another $3 gets you a quarter-pound of gemar, a home style milk cream to go with it.

Massif’s fatoush salad is outstanding ($6.99). Generous with the gutsy vinaigrette, this salad of lettuce, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes and pita chips is particularly good this time of year with the end-of-summer vegetable harvest.

Even the sides I tried were unique and tasty. The moutabbel (eggplant, lemon, garlic and sesame paste) was exceptionally creamy. The rice inside the dolma was mixed with a yummy tomato-red pepper sauce.

I would definitely come back here for take-out food. Especially since there are so many other items to try like pacha and manti and qouzi. The restaurant itself, however, is not sure whether it’s takeout casual or dine-in fancy. Fresh flowers and red linen tablecloths (covered in plastic) might suggest table service, but it’s an order-at-the-counter place. Miles of ceramic tile reflect harsh lighting and televisions show American talk shows and Iraqi music videos. But fill that place with scores of people and they’d probably be happy as clams. In fact, it might be just right for an inexpensive family gathering. You can pre-order a whole lamb for $300! Or call ahead for Chef to make masgoof, a traditional Mesopotamian dish of seasoned, grilled carp, thought of as the national dish of Iraq.

They’re not exactly doling out smiles at Massif but the folks are pleasant enough once engaged. So for something new, give the Iraqi specialties at Massif Mediterranean Grill a try.

What: Massif Mediterranean Grill

Where: 902 E. Colorado St., Glendale

When: Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Prices: wraps, sandwiches, plates and sides $3.99 to $15

Contact: (818) 245-6863
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LISA DUPUY welcomes comments at LDupuy@aol.com.