The Gossiping Gourmet: Mexican cuisine that’s made-to-order and delicious

The other day I had a real yearning for good Mexican food, and a friend mentioned a place in Huntington Beach that has been around for many years and has consistently served some of the best Mexican food around.

Las Barcas calls itself a “gourmet Mexican food” restaurant, and after eating there, I must say that it serves some of the best Mexican cuisine I’ve come across. Although the food is gourmet, the place is mostly take-out. Customers place an order at the long counter and wait for the food to be taken out or enjoyed in the small dining area.

My dining companion and I sat at a tall table in the side room and munched on the fresh house-made taco chips, which were warm and wonderful. We dipped them in lightly spicy house-made green salsa and mild but very fresh and tasty red salsa, some of the best around.

We waited a while for our food, but everything is freshly made to order and the place was quite busy. I think that is probably the case most times. I think a good taco is the sign of good Mexican food, and Las Barcas’ deep-fried taco in a crispy shell with shredded beef — “slowly deep fried to perfection” and topped with lettuce, cheese and pico de gallo — set the standard for a really good taco.

I am a soup lover, and Las Barcas has a very tasty chicken tortilla version with pieces of chicken breast floating in a bowl of light chicken broth with fresh vegetables, tortilla strips and cheese. I would have liked it a little more with less broth, but it was still very good.

From the “combinations” category, I chose the one-tamale, one-enchilada plate. The enchilada was stuffed with thinly shredded beef and covered with the house enchilada sauce, which was fresh and delicious. The pork tamale was equally good. The dish was completed with very tasty refried beans and well-seasoned rice.

The chile relleno is breaded and stuffed with cheese. It is big enough for two and another winner. A fire-roasted chili pepper gave it heat, and the cheese stuffing was rich and creamy. The whole thing was smothered in ranchera salsa and more cheese. The plate included beans and rice.

We had to try the El Grande Burrito, which weighed a pound. It was almost too heavy to pick up to eat. It’s filled with chunks of beef, sour cream and fresh guacamole, then topped with ranchera salsa and melted cheese. This is a dish for a he-man or to share. If you are health conscious, you can get the healthy fitness burrito or the veggie burrito.

The menu also includes tostada salads, nachos, quesadillas, full dinners and platters. There are just two desserts, caramel flan and alfajor (shortbread cookies with a caramel center).

Beverages are draft beer, bottled beer (domestic and imported), soft drinks, fresh-brewed iced tea and Orange Bang drinks. Las Barcas also uses canola oil and no lard or preservatives.

When the Denenberg family originally moved from Buenos Aires to Huntington Beach, they wanted to launch a new food culture — gourmet Mexican. This family business has been thriving since 1987. It has grown but continues to be a family affair.

The food here is good enough to lure me back again soon.

*

LAS BARCAS

Location: 21032 Beach Blvd. Huntington Beach

Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays; 10:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays

Prices:

Food: $3.50 to $10:45

Most beverages: $2.25 to $2.75

Beer: $3.75 to $12.99 (pitcher)

Information: lasbarcas.com; (714) 536-2616