A Treat at Sushi Roku

Recently, I accepted an invitation to attend a media tasting dinner at Sushi Roku. Normally I dine on my own dime at local eateries because I don’t want to feel obligated to comment on the experience in my column. My daughters are enthusiastic Sushi Roku patrons, so we took our houseguest, Rui Kanai, who was a waiter in his native Japan, to the Pasadena restaurant. Rui gave Sushi Roku high marks. I feel his opinion of a Japanese restaurant trumps mine, so I could safely enjoy myself with no worries.

At Sushi Roku, Heather Barbod, an account coordinator with Wagstaff Worldwide, greeted me. Wagstaff, a public relations firm, arranged the dinner. Heather grew up in our area and graduated from Flintridge Prep in 2001. She recently returned from the East Coast, having completed her studies at Boston College.

“I’m happy to be home again,” Heather said. When she compared notes with her fellow college classmates, she realized her high school experience was unique. “I loved the close-knit atmosphere in high school, it was unlike my college friends’ experiences. At Flintridge I knew everyone in my class.” Heather is enjoying re-connecting with old friends.

Earlier this year I described my struggles with scarf tying, so you can picture me sweltering in my heavy sweater coat as our party gathered. I was hiding a lumpy scarf knot under the coat. In spite of the self-imposed heat, I found the newly expanded Red Sun Lounge quite comfortable. The lounge fronts the restaurant space. The main dining room has ample table seating and a long sushi bar.

I shared a cozy, cushioned loveseat with another guest, while the rest of our party perched on suede square ottomans. Paper and wire lamps provided mellow lighting. The low cocktail tables can easily be moved to accommodate a large party or a single couple, providing flexibility in seating arrangements.

While the other guests were arriving, I perused the bar menu. On Mondays, from 5 to 10:30 p.m., and between 5:30 and 7 p.m. on other evenings, the Red Sun happy hour offers an amazing selection of handrolls and appetizers for only $3. House wines, well drinks, the restaurant’s private label draft beer and hot Ozeki sake are available at that price, too. What a deal.

We started our tasting dinner with a sip of one of the restaurant’s cocktail creations called the Fusion. It, too, is on the special happy hour $3 menu. My seatmate, who is a recipe developer, told me later that the Fusion was probably the most innovative taste she’d discovered in the meal. Everyone else seemed to love the drink. The Fusion is a smooth, light, blend of vodka and sake that has been soaked in watermelon, honeydew and cantaloupe.

Personally I am not a fan of alcoholic melon juice. I liked Sushi Roku’s version of the apple martini, the Fuji white apple. It’s made with unfiltered Nazori sake and green apple liqueur. The television news producer seated to my right pronounced the full-bodied apple martini, “a Vegas drink”. I guess I am less trendy and more Vegas. Try both.

We started our tasting menu with salmon wrapped in daikon with caviar, followed by yellowtail seared in hot oil. Next we tried a tuna sampler. Even though we were taking small bites from communal serving dishes, I was starting to feel I’d met my fish quota, when a giant arrangement of seafood arrived. I sent my plate down the table, where it was heaped with another round of little bites. This is when I lost track of details as I dutifully nibbled.

I’ve included a photo of the astounding sashimi plate. Decorated with flowers, the arrangement was amazing. The restaurant manager, who was guiding our dining journey, said that the sashimi plate was representative of a style of dining called “omakase.” He translated the word as, “trust me.” We translate as “chef’s choice.” If diners request omakase, they will enjoy a two-hour seasonal feast with five to six courses at $80 per person.

After the sashimi, we tried filet mignon wrapped asparagus with soy mirin sauce and two styles of Chilean sea bass. We closed with a chef’s medley of desserts.

All the items we sampled are on the extensive menu. Like their drink of the same name, Sushi Roku defines fusion, blending traditional Pacific Rim flavors with European culinary techniques.

Even if you don’t like Japanese food or fish, you can order a meal you’ll like. I would suggest rice, chicken yakitori (skewered grilled chicken) and the filet mignon with asparagus for the non-adventurous.

Japanese traditionalists will not be disappointed either. Rui said all the basics, such as rice, seaweed and green tea, are of the best quality. He also found the fish to be very fresh. I’m good at beer tasting and can recommend Roku’s Red Sun home brew.

I think it’s terrific that Sushi Roku can be the destination for a budget date, a graduation dinner with the parents or an everyday dinner out. My girls have used it for all those dining occasions. I’m grateful I had an opportunity to share a very special meal there with my media peers. Also, the next time I visit Sushi Roku I can take off my coat, since I’ve finally learned how to tie a scarf.

Sushi Roku, 33 Miller Alley at One Colorado, Pasadena, can be reached at (626) 683-3000.